Do you have an upholstery project that requires new foam for a cushion or seat? Here’s a guide to help you choose the right foam for your project…
First, I want to share a bit about how I deal with foam in my upholstery studio, along with a few entertaining alternative uses for urethane foam:
I’m a saver, a recycler, a stickler for minimizing the waste and useless by-product that emerges from my life & work. I use the blank sides of junk mail as scrap paper, throw match books (and spent matches) in the cardboard recycling, and use burlap scraps from upholstery projects as garden mulch.
So I have this problem that’s been bothering me…
Ever since I first dipped my big toe into upholstery, there has been one over-riding waste item (aside from the stinky old stripped-off fabric and padding that is beyond re-use) that I haven’t been consistently able to re-purpose:
FOAM SCRAPS.
Foam is expensive…
I buy it in sheets (54”x 82”) and half sheets (27”x 82”) and custom cut it into whatever size and shape needed for each project – a sofa cushion, a dining chair seat, back padding – and, inevitably, there is an odd scrap left over that’s too small to use on anything. Piecing them together is risky because the glued seam could open up during use, and ruin the whole upholstery job.
I hate throwing stuff away…
I think about what went into making that piece of foam (chemicals, resources, human labor, shipping) and I’m motivated to do what I can, so I’ve come up with a few uses over the years:
• Dog & Cat Beds: I go ahead and glue pieces together for this if I need to, since the puppies & kitties don’t mind and the zippered beds allow replacement (also a good use for old foam).
• Shred it for Pillows: I’ve heard there’s a shredding machine that cuts foam in to tiny pieces, and heard of a local guy who had one in his basement, but have not seen it or met him, yet…
• Toadstools: we make these small, medium & large mushroom-shaped stools that use layered foam, so I glue pieces for the bottom layer, and use an intact piece for the top layer (I sometimes do this with small chair seats too).
• Art: sculpt it, paint it, embellish it!
• Talking Balloons: You know, the cartoon balloons… always good for a laugh in the studio!
Here are some fun creations using urethane foam:
Okay, so that’s my 2-cents for re-purposing, but there’s really more to this story than finding CREATIVE ways to keep SCRAPS out of the landfill… which brings us to:
FOAM QUALITY.
If you’re doing your own project with ANY kind of foam – replacing a sofa cushion, re-covering (with new foam) your dining chairs, or building a new window seat cushion – you’re going to need to know that there are different foams for different purposes.
Sure, you can go down to the local Joann store and buy their low density foam (and this might be the easiest solution for many of us who just want a quick fix and don’t mind the comfort factor so much), but there are NICE foams out there that your tush will thank you for in the long run. High density means less air, higher quality, and longer life.
Here’s a handy chart that will help you choose the right foam for your own reupholstery or cushion project:
Here are two online foam sources for urethane foam that seem to be the most user-friendly:
The eFoam Store in Pennsylvania has a good explanation of how foams are specified using a 4-digit number: the first two digits representing density, and the second two digits representing ILD. For example, if a foam is identified with the number 1835, the 18 means a cubic foot of this foam weighs 1.8 pounds (The heavier a piece of foam, the longer it will maintain its shape), and the 35 means it takes 35 pounds of pressure to compress a piece of this foam to 25% of its original height (The higher the number, the firmer the piece of foam).
The Foam Factory in Michigan.
Note: this post was written in 2014, and is still applicable (in 2017) to those looking to replace old sofa cushions with POLYURETHANE foam.
Natural Upholstery Materials.
Here at NaturalUpholstery.com we’ve shifted our focus to NATURAL LATEX foam, which has very different properties than urethane foam. Check out the post ‘How to Use Latex Foam in Upholstery’ or How to Choose Latex Firmness for Upholstery, and see our comprehensive FAQs to learn more about latex foam. If your’e seeking materials without flame retardants to use in your upholstery project, we have some natural & organic foundation materials available in our shop.
Whether you’re working with ‘conventional’ or ‘natural’ upholstery materials, there are universal upholstery techniques and resources that can help you complete your own project. Check out my YouTube channel for upholstery tutorials, or Join our mailing receive upholstery tips, resources and links to video tutorials in your inbox.
I’m looking into reupholstering a chair I picked up for cheap, but it will need new cushions. Are there any glaring negatives to laying thinner foam sheets together and gluing to form one thick foam cushion? I just found out you can get 2 and 3 inch high density foam at hardware stores and was hoping I could just glue two sheets together for my cushion instead of shelling out the money for one thick piece of high density foam. Thank you!
Great question Krystal,
The glue will add firmness to the cushion, which might be a good thing if the foam is lower quality. Carla
Hi Carla,
I am looking to build my own couch – just a simple diy project that involves a flat base and maybe some pillows as the backing. As for the actual cushion of the couch, I am really not sure how to go about this. I want it to be super comfy, without spending tons of money. My question is, can i buy foam pieces and use that with fiberfill to create a decent cushion? This couch is going in my room mainly for a comfy place to do homework. Any tips or recommendations for me would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.
Hi Danielle,
You can use fiberfill in cushions, though it does tend to break down and flatten out more quickly than foam, and does not stay in place very well, so tends to get lumpy. That said, fiberfill can be fluffed up to a certain extent when it does get flat, so you might get away with it for a while. A better way to go than loose fiberfill would be to wrap a thick batting around your foam – it will stay in place better. You will most likely be replacing the fiberfill several times over the life of the foam.
I hope this helps!
Carla
Hi Carla, I’m making a very small bench for my bedroom and would like a foam that’s comfortable and lasts, so want it go be good quality. I also need some foam to make a back piece aswell, I’m guessing these foams need to be slightly different? I live in the UK so not sure if the number references are the same here and where I should purchase it from I’ve been looking on eBay but again so many different types I don’t know what to go for. I’m thinking I would need a high density foam for the seat and less dense for the back? Do I have to layer up the foam aswell so put a high density foam and glue a softer foam to the top to sit on so it’s more comfortable? Would love if you could give me some advice thank you!
Hi Jade,
Your back foam should be softer than your seat foam, since there’s a lot less pressure from leaning back and you want a bit of give there. I’m not sure how things work in the UK, but I would suggest visiting your local upholstery shop to see what they have. Here in the States, I think most upholsterers are willing to sell custom cut pieces of foam to customers who just want to replace the foam in their cushions. They will also know their own product, and should have some samples that you can feel and test first hand. There’s a wide range of qualities and types of foam out there and an infinite range of personal preference so unfortunately there’s no single answer to your question. One thing to remember is that density is not the same as firmness. Check out the link to the eFoam Store above for a good explanation of the difference. In general, the higher the density rating, the better quality the foam is.
Carla
Where do you buy your foam from?
Thanks for your question, Esai – As of 2016, we do not buy or sell urethane foam or any kind of petroleum-based foam any longer. Please see our 100% natural latex foam products at http://naturalupholstery.com/shop/ for an updated inventory of what we carry. If you are looking for an online source to purchase polyurethane upholstery foam for your project, try a web search. Since it’s been a long time since I’ve done any research on it, I’m not sure what’s out there currently. Meanwhile, if you’re interested in natural latex foam for upholstery, please feel free to contact me with any questions at http://naturalupholstery.com/contact/
thanks for the good information and entertaining uses of foam! I am going to try my hand at a kneeling chair and needed the advice of what type to use. I’m going to try some 2″ thick stuff so it can wrap around the seat a little and the knee pads.
Emily – For your kneeling chair, if you use a firmer, denser foam, you might be able to get away with 1″ foam, which would wrap a little easier.
Carla
Hey, I just want to thank you for this post. It’s very helpful!
I’m glad this was helpful for you, Julia!
Carla
Turning old coffee table into decorative bench….(wont be used to sit on regularly). Which density of foam should I choose for a firmer seat?
Carrie,
I recommend a firmer foam for anything that you sit on. You say this will be a decorative bench, so a softer foam would work. Just ask yourself “Am I likely to want to sit on this more once it’s in place?” If the answer is yes, then maybe you’ll want to invest a little extra in a firmer foam.
Carla
Hello. I am looking at the photo under the FOAM QUALITY heading… the caption refers to the two foam pieces, but can you tell me what the material is on top of the foam? I have outdoor furniture cushions that look like they are made entirely of that (three 1.5″ layers, perhaps?) and I want to replace it, but I don’t know what it is!
Thanks in advance
Hi Charlie,
The layer you are referring to is polyester batting, which is commonly used in upholstery as a top layer over foam to soften the edges and create a clean finished look under the cover fabric. It is thin and compresses to almost nothing in use. The material you’re asking about in your outdoor cushions may be poly-fil NUfoam, which is similar, yet denser and thicker. See example at http://www.sailrite.com/Fairfield-Poly-Fil-Nu-Foam-22-x-22-x-4 This is an inexpensive substitute for upholstery foam, and will not last as long – it will compress with use and eventually will not bounce back. You might consider reticulated or foam as an alternative – an outdoor foam that drains water readily. See example at http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Foam/HR_Foam_Sheets/index.html – this supplier calls it ‘Drain Dry Foam’
I hope this answers your question,
Carla
Hi there , this is k question I want to get some foam for my couch and my husband is 300lbs I want to know what kind of foam should get . and I would like to have a fluffy and comfortable.thanks
Hi Carla,
I have enjoyed reading your blog. My husband bought me a very nice (looking) stool for my makeup table this past Christmas. I say nice looking because the seat has caved in. He is a heavy man and he sits on it to watch TV from time and time and the bottom was made out of presswood. It caved in completely. I love the base so we want to redo the sitting area. The foam that was used is 18 x 153/4 and about an 1′ thick. Not a very good quality of foam. Can you recommend what type of foam I should replace it with and how thick we I should buy? Thank you in advance
Hey Carla,
I’m so glad I found this post! I’m a therapist and purchased a new sofa only to realize that the cushions are horrible. They compress and feel hard as a brick. I want to replace the foam and understand I will need high density foam. I want something that will last and maintain its shape, but I don’t want it to feel hard and uncomfortable. How would you recommend I decide between 35ILD and 50ILD? Thank you!!
Hi Carla, I want to replace my sofa cushion, it is all one piece and checked out the Joann Fabrics as they were having a 50% off sale. they have all of their foam numbered, 1-5 with 5 being the highes density. I want this to last so I want good high density foam. how do these numers tell me anything? is their number 5 density even good enough for a long sofa cushion replacement?
Hi Kim,
I would recommend at least a 35 ILD High Density foam for your couch. To make this rather firm, high density foam more comfortable, a down envelope may help to make it more ‘fluffy’. A good local upholsterer can help you choose what will work best for you and your husband.
Good luck!
Carla
Hi Kym,
I’m so glad to hear you’ve been enjoying my blog. I assume you are replacing the presswood with a sturdy plywood of the same dimensions. In that case, I would recommend a 40-50 ILD High Density replacement foam of the same 1″ thickness.
I hope this helps!
Carla
Hi Nicole,
For a sofa cushion 50 ILD is very firm, and the thicker it is, the harder it feels. In general, I like to use a 35 ILD foam for a firm-feel sofa cushion. If you want a ‘cushy’ feel with good support, you can also layer a cushion with different fiirmnesses of foam – for example, you might layer a 35 ILD in the middle, with an inch of 28 ILD on the top & bottom. It’s usually worth it to invest in a high quality, High Density foam – it will be more comfortable and last longer. A good upholsterer may be able to help you choose – with samples that are big enough to sit on and try out.
Thanks – I hope this is helpful!
Carla
Hi Caty,
In my experience, the green foam that Joann sells is not the best quality – even their best ‘high density’ foam leaves much to be desired in my book. I would check with a local upholsterer, who should be willing to help you choose a higher quality foam that will last longer.
Good luck!
Carla
From the Living Home Furniture site:
Question from Todd (Nov 18, 2016) –
Carla, great article! I’m currently planning to build a window seat, but one that my daughter (6yo) and wife will likely want to curl up on for a good reading session. Being that I’m building it, I have flexibility with the thickness, and was planning maybe 4-5 inches.
Wondering (1) your thoughts on that and (2) if there is any benefit to layering different firmness of foams to _really_ prevent bottoming out. If so, any recommendations of thicknesses and layers and ILDs to make a comfy spot.
—
Hi Todd,
If you’re considering natural latex foam, I would recommend extra-firm 4″ thick. Latex cushions are long-lasting when adequately protected from light with a layer of wool batting + a cotton ticking fabric between the wool and the cover fabric. Latex has a very nice ‘give’ to it that the firmer urethane foams tend to lack. It comes with a higher price tag, but in my opinion, worth it. If you’re looking at urethane foams, check out this site’s helpful info on choosing a firmness: http://www.efoamstore.com/techspecs.asp
Thanks for the great question,
Carla
From the Living Home Furniture site:
Question from Celina (Jan 18, 2017) –
Hi Carla,
We have an RV with a booth style dinette. We travel for extended periods and the seat cushions end up with a somewhat permanent dent where we sit most often. We would like to replace the foam with something that will be durable and less likely to create a dent when used frequently. What would you suggest?
Thanks,
Celina
—
Hi Celina,
Thanks for your question. It sounds like your cushions are worn out and/or have poor quality foam. Look for a high quality HR (High Resiliency) foam. Tip: in my experience Joann Fabrics’ green foam is not a high quality foam. The best place to start is to check with a local upholstery shop.
Carla
From the Living Home Furniture site:
Question from Zelda (May 23, 2017) –
My daughter wants to put a pillow on her window seat in her soon to be babies room. Do you recommend the 2 or 3″ foam for a window seat?
Hi Zelda,
I would recommend 3″ foam (30-35 ILD). The thickness you choose really depends on the quality of the foam. If you can find a high quality, super high density foam (35-40 ILD), then a 2″ thickness could work, but if it’s not dense enough, or of lower quality, you may ‘bottom out’ when you sit on it. Hopefully you’ll be able to test it out before buying, but this is a general guide in case you can’t. You didn’t say whether you were considering latex foam or urethane foam, which also makes a difference.
Carla
From the Living Home Furniture site:
Question from Mary (Jun 21, 2017) –
I have new fabric chairs ..I bought them in September 2016.. The inside is the foam .. You can unzip the cushion…these chairs are sat in but not on a daily basis…one chair is rarely sat in …the problem the foam inside has an awful odor ..I have put them outside ..used natures miracle and so forth…should I go back to the furniture store and tell them ..the chairs are not cheap…I paid $500.00 per chair..does foam just take on an odor. Should it be replaces with something else..I can’t stand being in the seat….I have never ever had this problem…
Hi Mary,
It is not usual to have such a strong odor coming from your foam. The smell could be due to some mistake at the factory. I would take them back to the store. If they’re not helpful, then you could have the foam replaced at an upholstery shop (of course be sure to smell whatever they’re replaced with before committing to the new foam).
Carla
Dear Carla , I gave my sofas for uppholstery one month ago. The result was amazing. My sofas are like new and look really good, BUT the are very hard to sit in. When complaining I was told that a high density, best quality foam has been used and that my sofas will last, for a long time, as new. I have been reading and I am thinking that a solution could be to cut the foam my sofas have thiner and add anotheranother layer of softer material to add softeness. Does this sound reasonable?..
Thank you, Maria (from Athens-Greece)
Hi Maria,
Yes, cutting the foam thinner and making up the difference with a softer material does sound like a reasonable solution. One example of how I have done this on a 5-inch thick cushion was to remove 2 inches of thickness from the ‘hard’ foam, and glue 1 inch of softer foam to each face, so we ended up with 3 inches of hard foam in the middle, sandwiched by 1 inch of softer foam on each face. Just make sure the softer foam is also ‘high density, best quality’, and you should end up with more comfortable cushions that will last for a long time.
Good luck – I hope you find a solution that works!
Carla
Excellent overview! Thanks for making this available!
Excellent beginner’s resource. I’m reupholstering vintage dining chairs from the 1970s. This was very helpful. Thank you!
Hello Carla
I have read everything with much interest as I have recently had new foam on a couch recovered for my vacation rental
The couch looks super but the back cushions fill like a board,
I read with interest your last post fromMaria Gonzalez December 10, 2017 at 9:38 am
as her couch sat like a board.
I am returning to my property April 7
and I need to get this fixed
Bought foam from Mill Outlet
I am not a seamstress so when you mention
Yes, cutting the foam thinner and making up the difference with a softer material does sound like a reasonable solution. One example of how I have done this on a 5-inch thick cushion was to remove 2 inches of thickness from the ‘hard’ foam, and glue 1 inch of softer foam to each face, so we ended up with 3 inches of hard foam in the middle, sandwiched by 1 inch of softer foam on each face. Just make sure the softer foam is also ‘high density, best quality’, and you should end up with more comfortable cushions that will last for a long time.
MY Cushions are 4″ and 3″ back
Upholstery said she can remove 1″ and wrap with the rolled stuff
is this what you would suggest
P;ease illustrate as I am having difficuly visualizing when you add 1″ of softer foam to each face to end up with 3″ of hard foam
Thank you in advance for your reply.
jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
My example actually ended up with the original 5″ thickness of foam: 3″ of hard foam, sandwiched by 1″ of soft foam on each side. Three layers glued together 1″soft-3″hard-1″soft. I’m not sure what you mean by the rolled stuff, but assume that’s the foam you purchased. I can’t speak to how it would feel without being there in person. I would suggest testing it out before your upholsterer glues the new layers together. That way you can figure out adjustments to get it right. Good luck!
Carla
Hi Carla,
I am looking to replace the foam on my sectional sofa cushions. I need 4 cushions. I want them to be really firm. What is the best foam that I should get? Originally I think they were 4″ thick. I also have 4 large removable pillows that are used on the back along with some throw pillows. What is the best foam for each that I should purchase (except for the throw pillows)
Any advise you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Eva
Hi Eva,
I assume you are considering latex foam as replacement. Since firmness is a subjective preference, please see the post “How to Choose Latex Firmness for Upholstery”, which gives general recommendations for each firmness.
Carla
Hi Carla,
I recently had a lazyboy recliner upholstered and the cushion was too hard for me as I have hip issues. Then he replaced the cushion and it’s still too hard. Sitting on it gives me a lot of pain. I was wondering if a memory cushion would work or could you recommend something else?
Hi Cheryl,
It sounds like you’re looking for something soft with a lot of ‘give’, and memory foam might work. Trying out separate cushion on top of the seat seems like it an easy way to test this solution. I’m sorry, memory foam is not my area of expertise, and we don’t sell it. FoamOrder may be able to help, and they offer custom cut foam. I hope this helps you find some relief!
Carla
Hi, I wanted to add to this thread with what I’ve found from some projects. I think finding good quality foam can be a lot of hit and miss when purchasing online (such as eBay, Amazon, etc) so looking for local suppliers where you can test it is always best. This past year I’ve been restoring a set of office chairs which we are making custom removable / washable covers for to extend their life and use as well ability to replace foam at any given point in the future again. I decided that buying a new office chair every few years when the foam gives out is pretty ridiculous, especially when all other parts may still be functional or is easy to fix (wheels, hydraulic shock, etc). I found some I really want to keep long term so I chose to rehab them. We stripped off the fabric (with a gazillion staples) and the old, cheap low grade foam (found on most every office chair be it $100 or $400) and started looking at how to layer foam to achieve more resiliency for your bottom as I’ve found most chairs will bottom out even within a year (and I’m only a standard 195lb guy). What works well as a replacement is a 3/4″ layer (or 1″ if you can get it) of very high density Volara foam which we spray glue to the base plywood and then add 2″ of high density 2.5lb / 55lb compression white foam as the topper. The trouble is a lot of people offer “high density” when it really isn’t. It really needs to be confirmed to be 2.5lb or even more. We also buy it 3″ larger in each direction and then cut off the extra inch or two using an electric black and decker dual blade food style carving knife. Hot wire works too but I like the knife method. I set the knife edge firmly against a 2″ x 4″ block of wood I made from 2×4 scrap which gets pressed up against the side of the seats plywood perimeter edge, then carve off the extra foam. I do it once after the Volara, then again after the top layer. I’m not a professional upholsterer, but give me a few weeks lol. I also weld and am in the process of designing a modular and futuristic steel and wood frame couch which will use 6″ cylindrical foam tubes that will all be removable / washable.
Thanks Jeff, this is great stuff! So true that most foams purchased through discount suppliers are low density, and thus low quality. Most upholstery shops will have access to higher density, higher quality foams. Since I work with latex, I can tell you latex is much higher density than most open cell petroleum-based upholstery foam, with density ranging from 4.4-5.9 lbs/cu ft. You can read more about latex foam firmness & density here. It sounds like designing and figuring things out comes naturally to you. Your couch design sounds intriguing. Keep on inventing!
Carla
Hello! I am in serious need of direction.
My brother gave me and my boyfriend a big couch. Its a great couch very deep seat cushions.
But the foam inside is so soft that when i stand up my joints are out of whack. I just need a super firm foam. I dont really care if its natural or not. I just need to know where to buy it. and What kind of cutting too l should I use? The are big squares and very thick. Your expertise is greatly appreciated.
Hi Dahlia,
The foam in your existing sofa cushions is probably low density. A High Density (HD) 35 ILD foam will feel quite firm at the thickness you are suggesting (5″ or thicker). Try Rochford Supply or The Foam Factory for high quality foam. Both sites have helpful information for choosing what kind of foam will work best for you. See this video about tools for cutting foam – I talk about latex foam, but the tools work just as well for other foams.
Good Luck!
Carla
Hi Carla, I just had my 2 den sofas reupholstered with new hard (?) foam in the cushions. However, after only three days with my husband lying on the sofa, there were indention where he was lying, mostly where his butt and back joined at the edge of two cushions. The indention remained for sometime. I turned the pillows over and looks at them later and they had smoothed out. Why would this happen?? The foam was suppose to be of excellent quality, but it reminded of foam that had gotten hard on top, possibly old foam?. Is this possible or is there another reason. I have contacted my upholsters but have not heard back from them yet.
Hi Brenda,
If this is ‘new’ foam, I would question whether it really is ‘excellent quality’. The ‘indentation’ as you have described (doesn’t immediately return to its original shape) is a sign of a low density foam. A high quality, high density foam would not do this. Low density foams have more air, and less resilience, or ‘bounce-back’, and also break down more quickly. Low density foams can also feel ‘hard’ as you have described. In general, Higher density = Better quality = Longer lasting.
Very informative post! I am upholstering a seat and a backrest for an office chair, and am hoping to use 1.5-2″ of foam for the seat and just 1″ for the backrest. I want to make sure that the foam doesn’t bottom out (even if someone weighing ~300 pounds sits on it): what ILD would you recommend? Or would a combination be necessary (e.g. 1/2″ of 70 ILD and 1″ of 45 ILD)?
Hi Adam,
A combination can give you the best of both worlds: preventing bottoming out with a high-ILD bottom layer, and offering comfort with a lower ILD top layer. Your combination seems appropriate for a SEAT that must support a 300 lb person. You can use a softer foam for the back, perhaps a 25 or 30 ILD, which will feel pretty firm but will hold up to daily use by a heavier individual. I think it’s always worth paying the extra up front for a high quality/high density foam, so look for the HR (high resilience) designation. You can read more about firmness & density here. The info talks about latex, but generally applies to other foams as well.
Hi Carla
The fabric covering my desk chair has frayed to pieces, and I thought while I was re-covering the seat and back, I may as well replace the seat foam as well. Seven years of sitting has compressed its cushining completely!
Would your GOLS Organic Dunlop Latex Foam be suitable for such a project? Perhaps shaped with some batting?
Thanks! This is a thorough and informative blog post.
Hi Tim,
Yes, I have used the GOLS Certified Organic Dunlop Latex Foam for this type of application. If the foam needs shaping, it can be cut with an electric carving knife or trimmed with sharp shears. I use the Premium Wool Batting to get a professional finished look. For more details on how conventional upholstery materials translate to natural materials, see the links on the upholstery resources page. Also see How to Choose Latex Foam Firmness for help with choosing which firmness is best for specific applications. Carla